The curiosity of trying out new and different skincare products is the main driver for every skincare junkie. (For those who are not familiar with this term, “skincare junkie” is every person who is into all kinds of cosmetics, skincare products, and cosmetic related topics.)
However, one particular issue arises when it comes to trying new products, and that is skin purging.
Purging is literally your skin reacting to cosmetic products, which contain cell-reproduction boosters, like AHA and BHA acids, retinoids, and other skincare ingredients. It happens because those ingredients stimulate the natural exfoliation process of the skin by increasing the production of new skin cells (also called chemical peels). [1]
Such products are usually used with the purpose of replenishing the skin, strengthening its barrier, getting rid of dead or damaged cells, reducing uneven pigmentation, and minimizing wrinkles and fine lines. For that reason, cell-turnover stimulating ingredients are preferred by people with aging/maturing skin.
Nonetheless, when the skin first reacts to such products, it usually “purges,” meaning, boosts the production of skin cells, which push all the “dirt” from your epidermis (the top layer of skin) up. In that sense, the outcome can be compared to breaking out as the skin forms small comedones (whiteheads or blackheads). [2]
Don’t worry! That means that your product is doing its job.
If your skin breaks out by a product that does not contain any of the ingredients mentioned above (AHA, BHA acids, retinoids, vitamin C), consult your symptoms with your dermatologist. It may be an irritation, sensitivity, or allergy caused by another ingredient (or set of ingredients), but the problem may also be more serious. By all means, if your skin is not purging, you should ask your doctor for advice.
It’s true that experiencing purging skin is very unpleasant and uncomfortable, even if it’s for a short time. Luckily, we can help our skin to go through this process! There are a few things that you better NOT do.
Let’s see them!
Don’t expose your skin to direct UV light
Rule #1 when it comes to using products, which stimulate the natural exfoliation process of the skin is:
Use high SPF protection daily, and often reapply to ensure constant protection.
Such cosmetics make the skin sensitive to sun radiation. Without protection, UV rays from the sun penetrate the skin, cause damage to the cells (the new cells are most impacted, as they are very gentle), and diminish the effect of the chemical exfoliators. The skin comes prone to burning, and the risk of premature aging signs is increased. [3]
And don’t forget that UV rays penetrate through clouds (UVA even through windows)! This means that SPF is a must, even if it’s cloudy outside.
Don’t touch your face
That’s valid not only for skin purging but also for your face in general. Our fingers are full of germs, which we “catch” by touching different things like door handles, elevator buttons, food, keyboard, money, phone, etc. And our phones, in particular, have tons of different bacteria since we sanitize them rarely, but use them during all kinds of daily activities.
In that sense, your fingers can “cross contaminate” the face, and if your skin is already irritated (due to the purging process), it’s much more prone to developing infections. You might experience itchiness, redness, burning, or other reactions, which would prolong the time of your skin getting used to the skincare product.
Don’t stop using the product that purges your skin
The goal of the whole procedure is to have clean, strong, flexible, and supple skin. If you continue using chemical peels you will stimulate the skin to get rid of all the gunk in the epidermis faster. [4]
Even though at first your skin may become worse, be persistent and remember that “purging” means that the product is working. Just keep in mind that you have to be sure your skin is purging and not breaking out. If it’s another kind of irritation, it’s best to stop the application of the product you use.
Don’t use irritating/drying cosmetics or exfoliators
Cosmetic products with controversial ingredients like alcohol, formaldehyde, sulfates, and silicones should be avoided if your skin is purging. The reason for this is the fact that those cosmetic ingredients additionally dry out the skin, make it prone to irritation, and may cause extra pore blockage.
Besides, an additional application of retinoids, acid, or vitamin C dose can worsen the purging, make it less tolerable, and make it difficult for the skin to adapt to those ingredients.
When it comes to physical exfoliation, it’s best to avoid it during the purging process. After all, the products that cause this skin issue are types of chemical exfoliators, which already work towards boosting the skin cells’ replenishment. Physical exfoliators like buffing power, brush, scrub, and konjac can additionally harm the skin and cause irritation. [5]